簡介:" 泰雅族的長衣,通稱為『lukus』,是泰雅男子最基本的服裝形式之一。衣料以白麻布為主,屬於沒有經過剪裁的方衣系統。長可及膝,對襟、無領。不論為工作或訪親時穿著的便服、或出草獵頭的戰服及慶典儀式的禮服,因使用材料、織法及紋樣裝飾之不同,而各有不同名稱。這些或許與家族傳統、穿著場合、社會地位及地理區域有關。 泰雅族的盛裝是貝珠長衣。其形制與長衣類似,全件皆以貝珠穿綴而成。由於織法特殊,且於特殊場合、特定儀式及特殊身分,始可著用,是泰雅族最貴重的禮服,這也是泰雅族的特有物,可當聘禮、貨幣或報酬之用。Atayal-Long garments -Ethnology-原住民-民族誌-標本-泰雅-長衣T he Atayal's smocks are called “lukus”. The smocks was one of the basic forms of dress for Atayal men. The smocks were mainly made from alb and belong to the non-cut garment system. The smocks would often reach down to knee level, had buttons at the front and were collarless. Smocks were a convenient form of attire that would be worn when working or visiting relatives. They could also be war clothes worn when going on head hunting expeditions or ceremonial garments. The various smocks had different names because they used different materials, stitching methods and patterns. These were perhaps related to family traditions the venue where the smocks were worn, social rank and geographical area. The most decorative Atayal item of clothing was the shell and pearl smock.Its shape was similar to an ordinary robe. The ? method was special and it was worn only on special occasions, during special ceremonies or by important people. This item was the most precious of all Atayal ceremonial garments. This was also a garment unique to the Atayal. It could be used as a dowry, as currency or as payment."